Glenns Garden

Flower Garden Design Can Be A Great Landscape Project

Glenn — Mon, 15 Mar 2010 12:31:47 +0000

By: Jeff Halper

At face value, flower garden design appears to be a simple matter of choosing flowering plant species that appeal to the eye and enhance the appearance of house and yard. While it can be this simple if all you are looking to do is to spice up the yard with a bit of seasonal color, professional flower garden design can offer you so much more when developed as a part of a professional landscaping plan.

An expert in landscaping will make certain that your flower garden design honors the architecture of your home. Different architectural styles must be complimented in different ways. For more modern and contemporary homes, color plays the most significant role. Most modern homes require a solid color flower garden to emphasize the stark absolutes of their geometry and highly subjective forms.

On the other hand, more traditional architecture is better complimented by contrasts and textures. Layered flower garden design provides alternating contrasts, textures, and a diversity of colors that help accentuate the symmetry and elegance of formal and conservative architectural forms.

One of the biggest challenges in flower garden design is the limited longevity of flowers themselves. While it is true that some flowering plants can live for decades, the blooms themselves produced by these plants do not last for more than one season. In order to design a flower garden that will truly magnify the landscape throughout the year, it is necessary for landscaping architects to plant different types of flowers at different times of the year.

Color selections will follow a certain pattern according to the cycle of life and death represented by the seasons themselves. Bright red, pink, and blue flowers are favorite colors for spring gardens. In the summer, when the sun is at its hottest and brightest, yellow flowers are often very appropriate choices. In late fall and winter, white flowers stand out even the most rainy and cloudy days when very little light ever reaches the ground.

Professional landscapers can help you choose from best of these colors to match your home and yard, and they can further extend the benefits of those selections by selecting the hardiest plant species that will endure the often extreme weather conditions characteristic of the Houston climate. At different times of the year, we experience heavy rains, high humidity, and long periods of searing heat with no rain. It is very important to anticipate all of these widely varying conditions in order to plant a flower garden that will maintain its vitality and aesthetic throughout the entirety of its intended lifespan.

This does not mean, however, that climate limits plant selection, per se. An otherwise delicate species of flower can be strengthened against certain environmental extremes by professional landscapers with knowledge of both botany and garden design. If a species is chosen that needs more water than the season allows for, special irrigation can be designed that will make up for the lack of rainwater.

Drainage systems can be embedded and concealed in virtually any flower bed to keep too much water from flooding the plants and damaging roots and stems. Water and heat, therefore, do not present the ultimate challenge to professionals who know what they are doing.

Workarounds such as this become more complicated when we then face the challenge of lighting. Some species of plants simply cannot grow without a certain amount of light. In such cases where a highly desirable species is discovered to be incompatible with its environment, it falls to the expertise of the landscaper to develop a workaround to what appears to be an insurmountable barrier. Such workarounds may involve creating new pathways for light by altering nearby structures, or they could involve using advanced botanical knowledge to locate very similar species that thrive under very different lighting conditions.

In either case, the best way to guarantee lasting satisfaction and return on your investment is to have your flower garden designed by a professional. Yard service companies and gardening magazines will give you great ideas for creativity and expression, but at the end of the day, the practicalities of seasonal change, rain, temperature, and water require terrain management skills that only an experienced landscaping company can provide.

Author Resource:-> Jeff Halper has a passion for landscaping and landscape design, for more information visit Exterior Worlds you can read more about Annual Flowers Design or Landscaping Design

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Greek Oregano ( Origanum vulgare hirtum )

Glenn — Sun, 14 Mar 2010 07:23:17 +0000

For real flavor there is nothing like the taste of fresh Greek Oregano. This is a very spicy herb in fact the fresh leaves when tasted will numb the end of your tongue. This oregano is probably the spiciest even twice as spicy as Italian Oregano. The flavor of fresh leaves do not hold up well to prolonged cooking so should be added towards the end of the cooking to get the best flavor.

Greek Oregano

Growing Greek Oregano

Location

Greek Oregano will need a sunny location with 6 to 8 hours of full sunlight a day. Greek Oregano does not do well in high humidity or wet soil. A raised bed or container is best for this herb with well drained soil.

Propagation

Plants can be started from seeds, divisions or cuttings. Plant after the temperature is at or above 45 degrees.

Growing

Plants should be water well at least once a week . Depending if it is grown in containers then it may need watering more often as containers dry out faster. If you are growing in containers make sure to provide a lot of drainage so soil will not be soggy. Water the plants mid day whenever possible. Fertilize sparingly if at all oregano likes the soil on the lean side. Be sure to keep pinching off the flower buds before opening to prevent the plant from flowering it will keep the plants bushy and prevent them bolting to seed. When the centers begin to die out divide the plants. You can also divide plants if you wish to make more plants.

Harvesting

Once the plant has reached 4″ to 5″ sprigs can be taken . Harvesting before the plant blooms will yield the most flavorful leaves. As the flowers begin to develop the essential oils diminish. The leaves can either be used fresh or dried. Dried leaves have a stronger flavor than the fresh.

Feeding The Soil Organically

Glenn — Fri, 12 Mar 2010 08:59:11 +0000

There is an important aspect of organic gardening that you can very well relate to. Imagine this. You are hungry, haven’t been fed, nor taken a bath, you haven’t even pampered yourself. You’ve spent all your time working and taking care of others, but you haven’t tended yourself for your own good.

How would you feel? For the time being, you may be able to accept the fact. You may still tire yourself out without asking for anything in return. But as the days go by, you will feel the negative effects of the situation. You will no longer have the kind of energy that you used to. Your body will deteriorate until it can no longer function for the things that it used to do.

How is this related to the organic method of gardening? You can actually compare this to the state of the soil. Soil is a very important aspect in this type and all the other kinds of gardening. This is the base of everything. This is the foundation of your garden if it is not well tended and taken care of just as in the example above it will function for a while but it will soon give out and no longer function properly.

Depending where you live will determine to some extent what you will do to feed your soil. A sandy soil will require a different amendment than a clay soil but all soil needs water, air and light to be healthy. With organic methods you will be using stricly organic materials to feed and improve your soils. Basically this will be compost that will be added as an amendment to improve the soil tilth and its ability to support micro organisms and promote the water holding and drainage capacity of the soil.

A good compost will help to build the soil by feeding it with the nutrients it needs and to promote good microorganism growth. Fish oil and composted manure should also be added and over time the soil will be rejuvenated and become productive again. When you prepare your garden beds in the spring incorporate several inches of compost into the soil by laying it on top and working it into the first 6 inches of the soil. During the growing season use mulch as a compost to keep the soil moist and to help cut down on weeds that will rob the soil of needed moisture and nutrients. In the fall add more compost and till it in at the end of the season.

Another important factor is to never let the soil dry out. Moisture is critical for good plant growth as well as keeping the soil healthy. During dry periods provide supplemental irrigation in order to maintain a good moisture level. As you work with your soil you will see a significant improvement of yields and the health of your plants. Your soil will not be improved overnight. As you switch over to organic methods you will see defiantly see an improvement each season and be enjoying the benefits of chemical free gardening while providing for the natural reconditioning of the soil. As time goes on you will see a reduction of pest and disease as well.

Great Weather At The Urban Garden

Glenn — Wed, 10 Mar 2010 09:19:06 +0000

Wow what a great way to start the week at the Urban Garden . The weather has been really great and temperature has been above normal. It is sure good to get out and start doing some gardening again even if the majority of the work is related to cleanup of winter debris and damage repair. The prediction is for close to 60 degrees today. A look ahead says above freezing temperatures for the next 10 days. It is a good thing. As Spring approaches I get a bit antsy to get started.

This week is a good week to get out and start looking around your gardens. Do a little cleanup of trash and debris. Take note of any winter damage as well so that you can get it taken care of during periods of good weather. The sooner you get pre-emergent herbicides in your beds the better. You want them to start working before weed seeds start to germinate.While cleaning your beds be very careful of emerging spring flowering bulbs you do not want to damage the plants while cleaning the beds . Pre-emergent herbicides should not be used in beds that contain flowering bulbs as they will damage the plants and prevent them from growing properly. Generally speaking March and early April are the times for this task. The effects of the herbicide diminish the latter it is put down.

Now is also a good time to get your lawn ready for spring . Rake off any debris and matted grass. I like to get my first application of fertilizer down by the end of March. Here at the Urban Garden the soil is very sandy so we fertilize at least 6 times through the season because a lot of the nutrients wash out so quickly. You can also patch any areas of damage now and the seeds will germinate as soon as the weather warms a little more. If you get your seed down now you can take advantage of the cool temperatures and spring rain to get the seeds off to a good start. Speaking of lawns have you gotten the lawnmower in for a tune up yet? If you wait the lines will be long and so will your grass.

Now is also the time to cutback and cleanup the perennials you did not get to last fall. Cutback ornamental grasses as they will soon start to grow and you want to get rid of last years dead growth. You can also give an application of fertilizer to your perennials now to help then on their way. I use a 14-14-14 slow release so that they will have some sustained feeding as they emerge from dormancy . I noticed the daylilies yesterday where starting to get some new growth. So the time is coming . I try to get as much done as possible before the weather really breaks so that I am that much more ahead of the game.

Well if you don’t have time this week to get out and work in the garden than I hope at least you have some time to get out and just look around a bit. Take a few minutes to enjoy the weather and think ahead to what wonderful beauty will be in store this season when the garden is fully awake from it’s winter nap.

What To Plant In The Vegetable Garden In March

Glenn — Mon, 08 Mar 2010 07:14:51 +0000

Seems like one or two days of warm weather here in Chicago and everyone is itching to get out in the vegetable garden. Well while real vegetable gardening will not begin for another month or two there are things that can be planted in March. Onions and Potatoes are two items that will do well in the very early Spring garden.

ONIONS

Onions are a cool season vegetable that can be grown in almost all North American locations. Onions can be grown from seed, transplants, or sets. Onion sets are the easiest for the home gardener and should be purchased early before they sit in the warm garden center store for too long. If they are not going to be planted right away then store them in a cool dark and dry location. Onions that are grown in the north are long day varieties and those grown in the south are short day varieties. Onions will start there bulb development when the daylight hours reach the right daylight length. So by planting early you will be able to get the biggest bulbs.

Planting

Onion sets should be sorted before planting into two groups, those that are dime size and smaller and than anything bigger than a dime. This may sound backwards but this is how it works. The smaller sets should be used for dry onion bulbs that will be harvested in the end of summer and the larger sets should be used for green onions that will be harvest in the spring.

Planting

For green onions plant the bulbs 1″ deep with the bulbs touching each other. For dry onions plant the bulbs 1″ deep 2″ to 4″ apart. If planted 2″ apart pull every other plant and use as a green onion to avoid crowding the bulb development. Allow 12″ to 18 ” between the rows.

Care

Onions have shallow roots therefore do not compete well with weeds. Shallow cultivation and hoeing is very important. To grow green onions pull some of the soil up around the plants after they have reached 4″ and hill slightly. For dry onions do not hill.

Harvesting

Green onions can be pulled at anytime after they reach 6″. The latter in the season the the stronger the flavor and may not be suitable for eating raw but can be used in cooking. For dry onions let the tops fall over naturally usually late July to early August. Pull the onions early in the morning and let them dry in the garden most of the day. Move them undercover before evening. Space on drying screens or braid in small bunches and hang in an area with good air circulation for 2 to 3 weeks so they will dry completely. Store in a cool dry location. They can last until late winter

POTATOES

Early, mid-season, and late varieties can all be planted in Mid to late March And April in the garden. If the soil stays too cold the pieces may rot before they have a chance to grow. There is also the chance that a late freeze may kill back the top growth to the ground but the plants should recover. Potato tubers formation occurs at soil temperatures between 60° and 70°F. When the soil temperature reaches 80°F The tubers fail to form. So the earlier the planting the better. Mid-season and late varieties may be planted up to the first of July. Late season varieties tend to store best over the winter.

Planting

The soil should be fertile and well drained. If you have clay soil it should be amended with organic matter and compost. Potatoes are started from “seed pieces” rather than from true seed. Each piece should be about 2 ounces and contain an eye. The pieces should be planted soon after they are cut. Place the potato pieces in a furrow about 3 inches deep and cover. Space the pieces between 10″ and 12″ apart and make the rows about 24″ apart.

Care

After the potato sprouts gradually start to build a ridge of soil around the plant by hoeing towards the plant. Be careful when cultivating because the tubers are only 6″ below the surface and can be damaged easily. By th end of summer this ridge maybe 6″ high. This soil ridge helps to sheild the tubers from the sun and eliminate green spots on the tuber caused by exposure to the sun. It is important to irrigate regularly while the tubers are forming. Mulching with compost will also to help to conserve moisture as well as keeping down weeds and keeping the soil cool.

Harvesting

Harvest the potatoes after the vines have died. A spading fork or shovel is used to dig the tubers up.
If you would like new potatoes you can dig up the plants while still growing in July. You will have the small tender 1″ to 2″ new potatoes to be eaten right away. Storage or late potatoes are usually dug in August or early September. They can be stored in a dark room with a high humidity and a temperature between 38 and 40 degrees. Tempratures below 38 degrees can damage the potatoes.